Return to Seoul. After the pre-collection show presented by Louis Vuitton on April 29 on the impressive Jamsugyo bridge, it’s Gucci’s turn to offer a show, a cruise collection this time, in the capital of the country of Morning-Calm . The Italian house unrolled its score in the main courtyard of the very touristy Gyeongbokgung Palace, built at the end of the 14th centurye century, on the evening of May 16.
This is a pivotal moment for the label, which saw its star artistic director, the Roman Alessandro Michele, leave his post in November 2022, and which is still awaiting the takeover of the collections by the Italian Sabato de Sarno, who came from the Valentino house and whose vision of the Gucci revival will not be unveiled until September 2023.
It is therefore once again a collection piloted by the teams of the house studio, as was the case during the Milan week of February 2023, which was presented. A parade that The world followed from Paris. Through interposed screens, we witness a real sound and light show, the courtyard of the palace lighting up to the rhythm of the jerky soundtrack, composed by the Seoulian Jung Jae-il.
Explosive mixes of materials
As during the fall-winter 2023 collection seen in Milan in February, the teams have endeavored to revisit silhouettes from the archives, here from the end of the 1990s, when the Texan designer Tom Ford was in charge of the artistic direction. The studio has also turned to the singular look of Korean youth, fond of pop colors and explosive mixes of materials, no doubt wanting to pay homage to its host country. All this gives this parade the air of a rave-party, with a little futuristic side, even gothic at times.
We find in the silhouettes the rebellious and sexy allure imagined by Ford in his time, the long black coats being here cut in technical materials and equipped with zips. We recognize the trapeze skirts adorned with thin belts, worn with small jackets entirely embroidered with sequins. They are associated with collars that we imagine coming from surfing suits. A reference distilled throughout the collection, whether literal – models walk around with surfboards under their arms – or more subtle, like these rubber-soled shoes, slipped on like socks.
Other sportswear elements and obviously very 1990s connotations are also present in the collection: baggy pants are worn very low on the hips, cycling shorts accompany men’s jackets, games of cutouts and transparency reveal the shoulders or the belly.
The house has also teamed up with South Korean artist Ram Han, whose naive and colorful illustrations – cat’s paw chasing a butterfly, large cake… – are displayed extra-large on T-shirts. A smart transition collection, which revisits the recent history of the house in a modern way to make it easier to wait, while the long-awaited renewal is being prepared behind the scenes.