In Milan, looks are important. If a few irreducible designers manage to inject boundless creativity into their collections, the official line is to offer beauty, practicality and efficiency. This does not exclude designing highly desirable and particularly successful pieces. And thus to bring out strong trends for the autumn-winter 2023-2024 season, presented during fashion week which was held in the Lombard capital from February 22 to 26.
The big coat
Between the overcoat and the man’s coat, the big winner in outerwear is undoubtedly the large coat with its straight, enveloping cut and square shoulders. Matching the gray suit that it accompanies at Ferragamo, fashioned in a dazzling green at Jil Sander or more discreet in a loose gray version at Andreadamo, the XXL coat is impressive.
Variation around the tailor
A great classic of the female wardrobe, the suit is always a safe bet for designers, who enjoy revisiting it almost every season. Cut loose in smooth gray leather at Gucci, it is accompanied by twirling fringes at Sportmax, and is reinterpreted in a version with very fitted pants at MSGM.
The straight skirt
Rescued from a strict bourgeois look, the straight skirt will be part of every wardrobe next winter. At Prada, it is inspired by bridal petticoats and stitched with delicate embroidery. This is also the case at N° 21, in a more evening version associated with a simple gray knit sweater, while at Tod’s it comes in a ribbed knit.
Particularly popular in winter, burgundy is one of those timeless colors associated with pieces of obvious elegance. This will still be the case in winter 2024. Bally projects it on a shiny tortoiseshell leather coat, Bottega Veneta on a soft leather top and skirt set, and Alberta Ferretti imposes it on a large wool coat with puffy sleeves.
The big boots
Over the past two seasons, we have seen the return of the city shoe, to the detriment of the sneakers which until then were on almost all the parades. This time, make way for big boots with high heels. At Missoni, they’re silver for an electric mirror effect, at MM6 Maison Margiela, they’re in sand-colored leather and nubuck, and at Fendi, they’re branded and buckled.