In Milan, it’s not easy for a small brand or a new designer to make their voice heard, as the historic houses are so ubiquitous. Just look at the XXL billboards preempted by them, scattered all over the city. However, some names managed to impose their universe during the fall-winter 2023-2024 women’s fashion week which was held from February 22 to 26 in Milan.
At Sunnei, a label created in 2014 by Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, a Franco-Italian duo, the public, packed like sardines standing around an elevated podium, cries out in surprise when the first model turns his back on them and lets himself fall into the crowd, rock concert style. The operation is repeated for each passage, and leaves room for a general good mood. In this welcome happening, the clothes take a bit of a back seat. We still saw velvet suits, curly knit tops or long, well thought-out apron dresses.
Daniele Calcaterra, an Italian designer just 50 years old, who has worked in various houses – including the very chic and minimal Piazza Sempione – who launched his eponymous brand in 2014, has meanwhile offered a very beautiful collection, a tribute to the basics of the female wardrobe. With his mastery of volumes, he declines loose cashmere coats, straight trousers in thick wool, small pullovers in fine wool or even long silk dresses with a zebra pattern, with an effective simplicity. The colors – eggshell, water green, deep red – and the architectural jewels add a dose of chic to this modern-day wardrobe.
Finds and good humor
Andrea Adamo, 38, launched her own label called Andreadamo in 2020, after going through the houses of Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana and Elisabetta Franchi. ” I grew up in Crotone, a very small town by the sea, in the Calabrian region. Everyone told me that I was dreaming too big, that it was impossible for me to get out of it to become a fashion designer. This city and what it means to me is the inspiration for the collection”, he explains. Available in a palette of grays (“ the roofs of the city are made of clay “), the collection oscillates between the very sexy – close-fitting openwork dresses, transparent tulle tops, tight-fitting jumpsuits – and the more formal, with belted coats, strict blazer jackets or even straight trousers. A collection full of great finds.
It’s always easier when your name is little known to the general public – and to professionals! –, to be supported by Dolce & Gabbana. For three seasons, the duo has been inviting a young shoot to come and parade in Milan: after the South Korean Miss Sohee and the Englishman Matty Bovan, it’s the turn of the Japanese Tomo Koizumi to benefit from the boost of the iconic brand. . Not only was the 33-year-old young man able to benefit from the advice of designers, but he also had access to an unlimited stock of fabrics and to the archives to unearth inspiration. Result, a collection full of volumes, cascades of tulle and bright colors. It will not please everyone, but has the merit of injecting a bit of good humor into a resolutely serious season.