Fashion: the great return of Phoebe Philo


British designer Phoebe Philo waves to the public at the end of Celine's ready-to-wear fashion show for the spring-summer 2010 season, in Paris, October 5, 2009.

We weren’t expecting it, and yet it happened. It is on Instagram, where major fashion news are now announced, that designer Phoebe Philo, 50, officially announced on Thursday February 9 the launch of her eponymous brand, whose first collection is expected for September 2023. The date launch of this new label, supported by the LVMH group and whose birth had already been announced in July 2021, was long overdue. ” Being in my studio and creating again is both exciting and incredibly satisfying. I can’t wait to reconnect with my audience and people around the world.”confided at the time the interested party to the Business of Fashion information site.

Since her withdrawal from the fashion scene in 2017, after her unexpected departure from the post of artistic director of the Celine house, the Briton has been rare and discreet, fueling speculation. Regularly, his name was whispered for an upcoming arrival at Burberry, Alaïa or even Chanel.

The silhouette of the 2010s

It must be said that few fashion designers have had such an impact on the aesthetics of an era. During her ten years at Celine (owned by the LVMH group), Phoebe Philo helped define, season after season, the silhouette of the 2010s: a clear and feminine line, articulated around easily identifiable pieces such as large wraparound cashmere coats , high-waisted pants, impeccable knitwear, all served by a sober and elegant color palette. A definition of the French allure, with particular attention paid to accessories: the bags that she then imagined under the Celine flag are still popular today, including the Classic Box, a luxurious and timeless model.

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A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London in 1996, Phoebe Philo joined Chloé Stella McCartney, her friend and classmate, when the latter became artistic director in 1997. She was first the right arm of the daughter of Paul McCartney before taking over in 2001. At Chloé, she is committed to rejuvenating the brand’s image, while developing the accessories line. In 2006, she left the French house, declaring that she wanted to refocus on her London family life and her young children… which she did, before agreeing to succeed Michael Kors at Celine, in 2008.

Since her withdrawal, her past collections for Celine have become the subject of a cult worldwide, her aficionados tracking down the pieces on the web. The Instagram account Old Celine, a tribute to Phoebe Philo’s 10 years with the French house, now has around 400,000 subscribers. In its wake, many young designers have launched themselves with the same minimalist and polished aesthetic, like Daniel Lee (Burberry designer) or Rok Hwang (who founded Rokh), both former collaborators of Phoebe Philo at Celine . Based in London, this new brand will present its first collection in September 2023, most certainly as part of the spring-summer 2024 collection weeks.

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