After a decade-long collaboration, the Italian house Moschino announced the departure of its artistic director, the American Jeremy Scott, 47, on Monday March 20. “The past ten years at Moschino have been a wonderful celebration of creativity and imagination. I’m very proud of the legacy I leave behind.”the creator said in a statement.
Massimo Ferretti, president of Aeffe, the group that has owned the brand since 1999 (group co-founded by designer Alberta Ferretti), for his part hailed ” creative force” of Jeremy Scott and his ” distinct and joyful vision that will forever be a part of Moschino history”. Joy, with a hell of a dose of pop culture and fantasy, Jeremy Scott has undoubtedly brought it to this house founded in 1983 by the Italian designer Franco Moschino. The proof in three collections.
fast food satire
For his first steps on the Moschino podium, Jeremy Scott hits hard. And ironically tackles junk food. The significant red and yellow of McDonald’s invite themselves on wise suits, we even find a model with her hair done like a fast-food waitress, carrying her logo handbag on a tray. Dresses like crisp or candy wrappers also make up this collection full of irony. In the pure tradition of the founder of the house, Franco Moschino, who did not hesitate to be satirical in his creations or his advertising campaigns. In the 1990s, a parody of a Chanel suit walked on her catwalk with a belt sporting “This is a waist of money! » (pun on waist the “size” and waste the “waste” in English, to mean that it costs too much).
The little fashion theater
In the midst of a pandemic, when fashion collection weeks are at a standstill, Jeremy Scott offers his summer collection in the form of a seven-minute video. A miniature fashion show whose characters are small puppets. The inspiration came to him from the “Théâtre de la mode”, this traveling exhibition that the couturiers of Paris sent on the roads just after the Second World War to promote their work.
In the small Moschino theatre, we recognize in the front row the essentials Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful, the editor-in-chief of the British version of vogue. The collection, first imagined life-size, was then miniaturized, with the help of the workshop of Jim Henson, renowned puppeteer and creator of the Muppets. Evening dresses and gold and embroidered capes, fitted coats, high-waisted trousers accompanied by draped tops give this opus an almost couture dimension.
The “inflated” collection
This collection presented in Milan in September 2022 tackles the news, Jeremy Scott style. Starting from inflation, then present in everyone’s mind, the whimsical creator unrolls literally “inflated” creations: red hearts made of inflatable tires are thus scattered on wise black suits, while buoys with an apparent inflator bend the waists dresses or make up the hems. There are also duck or rabbit prints in the style of cartoons. A colorful collection, which is reminiscent of his creations for Adidas (regular since 2002), diverting the symbols of pop culture.