Fashion: in Milan, a liberated man, released for the summer


Dolce & Gabbana.

While Paris men’s fashion week, which begins on June 20, promises to be spectacular – with Pharrell Williams’ first show for Vuitton – a short season of spring-summer 2024 men’s fashion week has taken place. in Milan from June 16 to 20: only twenty-two fashion shows and thirty-six presentations. Small, but not insignificant! For once, Milan did not play the card of the formal and elegant wardrobe, but showed a liberated-liberated wardrobe that dares femininity, nudity, sequins and prints.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana asked themselves the question: “Who is the Dolce & Gabbana man? The last few years have generated confusion because of social networks, where everything is going very fast, where there are a lot of images. We now want to go back to our roots and to a clear image”explains the duo, who focused on “the quality of the fabrics, the cut, the attention to detail”. “Style” is the key word for a monochrome collection, with a restrained palette: black, ivory, beige, grey.

This chromatic framework allows D&G to express its stylistic fantasy in the shapes. There are of course costumes, a little oldschool, with tennis stripes and wide pants. Briefs and tank tops. But also a whole more feminine vein, always worn by strong, muscular guys: tops embroidered with flowers or draped so as to emphasize the waist; a sweater and lace pants that show the skin; very low-cut t-shirts.

Emporio Armani.

Once is not custom, we find common points between Dolce & Gabbana and the master of sobriety Giorgio Armani. For its Emporio Armani line, he also opted for black, ivory and beige, and partially bared the male body. Obviously, at Armani, the cut is looser and the fabrics more flexible, faithful to the casual chic that characterizes the house. The starting point of this collection is the ginkgo leaf that can be found embroidered on perforated leather T-shirts, in a shimmering print on dark shirts, in transparent lace on close-fitting tops, in a geometric pattern on hoodies, or in the form of a golden necklace.

A form of sophisticated relaxation that can also be seen in its more dressy Giorgio Armani line, which deploys a range of suits to be chic in all circumstances: in raw linen, black wool or blue silk, with a simple shawl tied around the neck. as a tie, espadrilles or moccasins on the feet. To symbolize the permanent rewriting of his style, Giorgio Armani, who receives his guests in the basement of his private apartments, had installed a giant pencil as a backdrop.

Embroidered shirts like disco balls

Change of atmosphere at Prada, which welcomes its guests to its foundation, in a decor of iron gratings, where a viscous liquid escapes from the ceiling. “This collection questions conventions: what is structure, what is masculinity?notes Raf Simons, co-artistic director with Miuccia Prada. We strive to understand how the costume can be completely different from what we know. Here, it is comfortable and leaves the body free to move. » To do this, the tandem focused on the shirt. In soft poplin, it is worked with very wide shoulders and a slim waist, 1940s style (“When we idealized the male body”, according to Raf Simons). It is decorated with Hawaiian motifs, slightly disturbing 3D flowers, thick pockets, fringes that sway to the rhythm of your steps. The shirt is covering, but not the high-waisted shorts cut short on the leg that are associated with it, nor those shrunken polo shirts that reveal the boxer shorts. Under their leather jacket cut like shirts, what are the models wearing? Not much.


At Etro, Marco de Vincenzo wanted to highlight “the power of textiles”, giving rise to an abundance of prints and colors: a low-cut T-shirt seems to be made up of Christmas garlands, a large patterned coat with orange pompoms is worn with a necklace of shells and peach-colored baggy pants, the shirts embroidered with pearls and sequins radiate like disco balls. We also come across reproductions of allegories from the 17the century : “Allegories synthesize values ​​in a strong image, and it fits well with our time so focused on the image”justifies the designer.

For Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli took over the garden of the cloister of the University of Milan. A choice that reflects its desire to speak to a young audience, just like the presence of K-pop muses in the front row and the live concert of the young American singer d4vd. The wardrobe, on the other hand, is not youthful and remains faithful to Valentino’s refined romanticism: suit jackets worn with shorts, ascot tank tops, shirts embroidered with peonies, skirts that merge with Bermuda shorts… All in strong signature colors of the house, black or fuchsia, petrol blue or soft green.

Valentino Garavani and PORTER.

“The suit with matching jacket and pants is no longer relevantsays Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna. Today, everything goes with everything, and that frees the consumer who can play with shapes and colors. » To establish “an efficient wardrobe”, and therefore without constraints, he offers a base of loose clothing in beige linen, where the volumes are fluid, the jackets unstructured with drooping shoulders, trousers floating around the leg. And spice it up with intriguing buttonless leather shirts, jagged shorts and chunky-soled all-terrain shoes. For Zegna too, audacity goes through color: tangy green or flamboyant orange are worked in a total look, welcome doses of vitamins.


Sky blue, ochre, emerald… The beautiful colors of the Fendi collection recall the surroundings of the show: the label was unfaithful in Milan by parading, on June 15, as part of the men’s fashion show Pitti Uomo in its brand new leather goods factory in Capannuccia, near Florence. An ideal place to imagine a pretty wardrobe imbued with nods to craftsmanship, where silk shirts are printed with screwdrivers or adjustable wrenches; the short leather aprons look like skirts; raincoats merge with blouses…

JW Anderson.

For the brand that bears his name, JW Anderson was inspired by the furniture around him: the fabric of a 1970s sofa gave rise to fluffy shorts, the arm of a chair to wedge clogs, a mop to close-fitting T-shirts . “It’s a collection that’s not too cerebral, where you cut off the sleeve of a sweater because you want to, for no reason”explains the Irish designer, who also imagined hooded sweaters perforated with a large triangle at the level of the torso. “It’s the fantasy of what I would like to wear”, he admits, dressed in simple jeans and a rugby shirt. Off the catwalks, will the men subscribe to the fantasy of the Milanese locker room? Answer next summer.


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