At Milan Fashion Week Men, the art of presentations



In Milan, the fashion show culture is not as strong as in Paris. No doubt because fashion is seen less as a spectacle than as an industry based on solid know-how, and there is nothing better than a “presentation” where guests can touch and observe the clothes closely to realize it. This season, a majority of houses have favored this format.

This is the case of Brioni, which invested in 39e floor of a modern tower. On the roof terrace, a wooden mannequin observes the view with his binoculars, another refreshes his feet in a fountain, a third has settled down in the shade of a bush… They are wearing fluffy linen shirts but structured, knitted cotton polo shirts, delicate leather coats. And then there are those sumptuous suit jackets where the different layers of fabric inside are not glued together as is customary: for more flexibility, they are simply sewn in a few strategic places.

Tod’s takes over the Villa Necchi Campiglio, an Art Deco jewel transformed into a museum. In the greenhouse of the garden, between two banana leaves, emerge moccasins in ocher suede calfskin, adorned with a T, and the matching belt, an ivory grained leather travel bag, or even the emblematic driving shoe, whose the pimples under the sole have been swollen. Seated on benches, elegant models in almond green shirts and anthracite trousers or a total beige look dreamily watch the assembly toasting champagne.

A festive format reminiscent of that of Brunello Cucinelli, whose presentations have the air of a garden party. In a shaded interior courtyard, an orchestra plays lively tunes, near a cocktail bar and a gargantuan buffet… and, in the midst of the guests, clusters of models at their ease in chic and slightly retro-inspired outfits over there French Rivieracream suits with tennis stripes, double-breasted Prince of Wales jackets or casual denim jackets.

At Gucci, while awaiting the first show of the new artistic director, Sabato de Sarno, in September, the Florentine brand has imagined a presentation-exhibition that mixes a few masculine silhouettes while prints celebrating the emblematic horsebit of the brand, in the middle of installations photogenic ideas by ten artists and designers. We come across a surreal table, whose feet are human legs in jeans and horsebit moccasins (signed Pitterpatter), a hairy bed above which hovers a horsebit shoe (Sylvie Fleury)… Like what, no need to scroll to do the happiness of Instagrammers.

Brunello Cucinelli.


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