Casting and modeling: the codes have changed


The model Victoria Fawole during the Prada, Vuitton, Hermès fall-winter 2023-2024 shows (from left to right).

Her name is Victoria Fawole. She is Nigerian, has big black eyes and endless legs. She is the model who has accounted for the most fashion shows – twenty-nine to be exact – for the fall-winter 2023-2024 season, which ended in Paris in early March. We have seen it in particular at Louis Vuitton or at Prada. We can predict that the young woman will certainly be on the trip during the next cruise collections presented in Los Angeles for Chanel (May 9) or on an island in Lake Maggiore in Italy for Louis Vuitton (May 24).

She was spotted by a modeling agency on Facebook in 2021. Because, today, if the myth of the young girl who stands out in the street, at a concert or in an airport hall (as has was the case for Kate Moss when she was 14) still exists, it is now on social networks that everything is played, or almost. “It still happens that a young girl is spotted at McDonald’s, but it is increasingly rare, explains William Lhoest, casting director. Today, it happens mainly on social networks, Instagram in particular. The advantage is that we immediately see the photogenic nature of the person, even if we obviously have to be wary of filters and other photo retouching. In any case, you have to meet the person, see them move, see their attitude. »

The casting of a fashion show, also called the cabin, is in fact in the hands of casting directors, who work closely with modeling agencies and “scouts”, to understand these unearths of new faces who still criss-cross the planet. and frantically scan the screen of their smartphone in search of the new star. Some, like William Lhoest, are both scouts and casting directors.

The role of the latter is decisive for fashion designers as the models set the tone of a collection. “I need to have a fairly precise idea of ​​the cast before even designing the collection. It helps me create clothes while thinking about the people who will embody them, set them in motion. For me, clothing is intimately linked to the personality that inhabits it.explains designer Marine Serre.

From left to right: Djibril Cissé and Kendall Baisden during the “State of Soul” fashion show, by Marine Serre, spring-summer 2023.

For her spring-summer 2023 collection, presented in the Michelet high school stadium, in Vanves (Hauts-de-Seine), the designer rolled out a collection with sporting accents, inspired by the Olympic Games. She therefore naturally turned to a cabin made up in part of athletes, including the footballer Djibril Cissé or the American model Kendall Baisden, also a specialist in the 400 meters.

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