Bad timing? Mixed New York Fashion Week, which took place February 10-15, struggled to exist beyond its own borders, overshadowed by an avalanche of fashion news. On February 10, star stylist Phoebe Philo finally announced her return to business. Two days later, Rihanna, pregnant, ignited the web with her performance at the Super Bowl – much has been said about her total red look, branded with European brands Alaïa, Loewe, MM6 x Salomon. On February 14, Louis Vuitton defied predictions by appointing singer Pharrell Williams as artistic director of men’s collections. Meanwhile, New York Fashion Week rolled out its seventy-five shows and presentations, far from uninteresting. The proof by five.
veils and hairs
Not even shy: New York has ensured a strange split with two rather contradictory underlying trends. Transparencies have thus gone well, taking the form of green, ochre, lilac or bubble-gum pink chiffon dresses, where we see everything below at Coach, nightie dresses for the heiress of the Addams family at Rodarte, ultra-sexy jumpsuits at Heron Preston, gauze crop tops at Dion Lee… Conversely, hair warms up other silhouettes, with faux fur, in stoles at Altuzarra, in tank tops at Eckhaus Latta, in tracksuits at Palomo Spain, and some sheepskin at Khaite, who used it to cut his coats, but also pants and even mules.
A name to remember: Khaite
Winner of the American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award at the CFDA Fashion Awards in November 2022, Catherine Holstein has established herself as an essential actress at New York Fashion Week with her brand, Khaite, founded in 2016. In her new boutique of Mercer Street, she presented a stylish and very wearable collection. The models look chic and powerful in their long fur coats, double-breasted jackets, long sheer skirts that skim the floor. A fair balance between minimalism and eccentricity which justifies its success and the forthcoming opening of ten new boutiques in the next five years.
To succeed in the twists and turns of social networks, you have to create strong images. Bringing a surreal touch to clothes often turns out to be a good bet. Like the duo Area, which draws an improbable series of creations imitating fresh or decomposing bananas (in a velvet dress, denim bustier, pearl crop top, etc.) or watermelons. Or, in another genre, Hillary Taymour, from the Collina Strada label, has amazed her world with masks and prostheses using animal appendages (donkey’s ears, pig’s snout, duck’s beak, dog’s head, etc.) , shaped by British makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench. Accessories giving his clothes, composed of superimposed lace, satin, flannel or unsold lengths of checkered fabric, an impossible-to-miss strangeness. But also a message of awareness of vegetarianism. Title of collection? “Please don’t eat my friends!” »
Businesswomen on the rise
Particularly in shape this season, Tory Burch and Gabriela Hearst have in common to have founded their independent label and to struggle, each season, to inject oxygen and develop it. The first, skilled in inventing successful accessories, rehabilitates the pointed toe heels of the 2000s and multiplies the bags to be carried by hand. She adds large coats, satin tops, cashmere sweaters, sometimes stitched with nonchalant details or as if deliberately finished in a hurry: raw edges, traviole belt, safety pin left in the canvas… In a genre more modest, Gabriela Hearst also continues to trace her path. Appointed artistic director of the Chloé house in 2020, she has not given up on her own New York label. This season again, the Gabriela Hearst show is among the most convincing proposals, with chunky knits, braided leather coats and understated suits inspired by the work of architect Eileen Gray.
A more developed formal research
Historically, New York Fashion Week was best known for sportswear and easy-to-wear outfits. But this season, some designers have pushed American fashion to its limits. Never short of spectacular effects, Thom Browne offered his variation of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s Little Prince: coat with stretched shoulders, jacquard corset, frenzy of crinolines and bows, tweed with bouclé and deconstructed rugby striped tailoring. and reassembled. Elsewhere, the Spaniard Alejandro Gomez Palomo, of Palomo Spain, returned to childhood, with naïve dresses of an idealistic girl, worn by muscular boys, or pop pieces, feathered, sequined, in terry cloth, embroidered with crystals… As for the American Carly Mark, of Puppets and Puppets, confidential until then, she knew how to get noticed with a horrifying and sculptural parade, dominated by blood red, nourished by the film False pretenses (1988), by David Cronenberg.