QWho knows what’s really inside? The heart gives its shape to many bags this season. No doubt this is due as much to the flashback of kitsch in the 2000s as to a more or less avowed need for love in a complicated era. TikTok experts talk about lovecore or of heartcore, viral trend fully exploiting manufactured romance.
Formed by two lobes meeting at the base in perfect symmetry, the symbol is probably less related to the shape of the organ than to a schematic representation of the ivy leaf – a perennial shrub vine throughout the year. Unless it is the silphion seed, a plant that has now disappeared. Everyone will choose their interpretation.
Still, it’s in the XIVe century that this stylized design spread. It will soon give its shape to jewelry, amulets or talismans, to signify love and fidelity or seek hypothetical protection. In the Victorian era, the heart becomes a medallion, inside which a lock of the loved one’s hair should be slipped. Then he will give his shape to boxes of chocolates and countless gender toys for nice little girls.
It is sometimes said that great works are prescient. In an episode ofA nanny from hell, soap opera saturated with recorded laughter that made a whole generation of preteens giggle in the 1990s, actress Fran Drescher carries a disposable camera in her red heart-shaped bag (Moschino) that she uses to take her picture in the mirror restrooms in a restaurant. Thus prophesying the civilization of the selfie. Thirty years later, the bag is snapping up on second-hand sites and the Italian brand, for which designer Jeremy Scott worked for a decade, is offering a spring-summer 2023 collection that gives pride of place to the pattern.
But from the heart, of course, no one has a monopoly and all the designers have delivered their own version: from Vivienne Westwood to Karl Lagerfeld in 1995 via Alaïa, Balenciaga or even Alessandro Michele, who, in 2021, presented for Gucci a minaudière realistically taking the shape of the vital organ, aorta and arteries included. The object, as rigid as it is spangled, had its small effect on the red carpets. Since then, in rhinestones, in volume, flat, monogrammed, heart-shaped bags multiply and get carried away. Big risk of palpitations in the leather goods department this season.