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With its comfortable and plump sleeping bag style, its fun and regressive name, the down jacket is a familiar item of clothing today. From those that we now meet every winter on every street corner, on the backs of young girls, grandfathers and children. If it was for a long time confined solely to ski slopes and other winter sports – and therefore, as such, for a long time the preserve of specialized brands, Moncler, Fusalp, Pyrenex and others –, for a few seasons, it has largely imposed on the catwalks of the autumn-winter collections, each designer going there with his creative interpretation, both in the feminine and masculine lines.
” Sport has always irrigated fashion, as we have seen with the growing influence of sportswear in ready-to-wear collections. We first adopted the tracksuit then the basketball, and, in the autumn-winter collections, the pieces usually reserved for winter sports, in particular the down jacket. It also responds to the influence of sport in our lifestyles “, explains Thomas Zylberman, fashion expert at the Carlin International trend office.
On the catwalks, we remember the imposing red model swung over the shoulders seen during Demna’s first collection at Balenciaga, in March 2016. This season, we saw it in a kimono style at Dior femme, in a skin version woolen on a male mannequin at Jacquemus, pumped up at Loewe or even in a glossy version with a corset at Versace.
“The down jacket perfectly embodies the trend “extra large”, this imposing silhouette, with accentuated volumes, which is currently very fashionable. It is clearly a catwalk trick that is not so easy to reproduce on a daily basis, but the down jacket is one of the few pieces that allows it easily and admits colors or metallic effects »comments Thomas Zylberman.
How did the down jacket gradually descend from the mountain to land in the street and in our wardrobes? The Japanese Uniqlo has notably participated in its democratization, with its ultra-thin models of 180 grams at 49.90 euros, which roll up in a pouch to be taken everywhere. In 2013, one of them won the honors of the “one” of Time Magazine with this hook: “Can this jacket save Japan?” »as the brand broke sales records.
A technical challenge
As practical and fashionable as it is today, the down jacket is nonetheless a technical challenge. “Comfort and functionality are the first criteria to be taken into accountexplains Eran Elfassy, founder and artistic director of the Canadian brand Mackage, which has made outerwear its specialty. To which is obviously added the technicality: the down jacket must be manageable and therefore light, waterproof and resistant to the test of wind and cold. » The fabrics, developed in-house, are therefore light, breathable, retain heat and are obviously waterproof: recycled nylon, polyamide, goose feathers…
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