Paris Fashion Week: masculine sensibility

Rick Owens.

What look to adopt when you’re a man and you want to break free from the uniform, whether it’s the old suit and tie or the bling tracksuit? “A disruptive elegance”retorts Dries Van Noten for whom the creators can “to suggest to men more new ways of expressing themselves”. In fact, during Paris fashion week, which runs until June 25, some designers praise sensitive masculinity.

“Why are we on Earth if not to be good to each other and be happy? »asks Rick Owens, which also provides the answer: “Considering joy as a moral obligation, I propose a dark and determined elegance, all in black. » The designer offers an army of silhouettes as disturbing as they are chic: men (very thin) in suit trousers with very high waists and legs so long that they trample the fabric in their platform shoes as they walk.

When the torsos are not bare, they are adorned with draped, asymmetrical, transparent tops. The long sleeves amputate the hands, the shoulders of the jackets are exaggeratedly wide and pointed. This fascinating horde seems both dressed for a ceremony and the end of the world, the atmosphere of the parade oscillating moreover between the two: fireworks are fired above the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo and spread their smoke while the soundtrack full of squeals, sizzles and low bass makes the ground vibrate.

Ocher or sienna tones

At Dries Van Noten, a heady disco remix of Soulwax repeats in a loop: “I can make you feel good” (“I can make you feel good”). Le Flamand takes the slogan to the letter and sends on the catwalk a precipitate of refined chic, in ocher, sienna, gray or ultraviolet tones. The proportions, subtly exaggerated, create an impression of haughty distinction. Moiré belted coats, high-waisted trousers or knit tunics elongate silhouettes and raglan sleeves make zipped bomber jackets imposing, while the gaze is caught by jeweled belts or disturbing transparent T-shirts. “I like to play with connotations between masculine and feminine vocabularies, going towards muslins, silks, sequins”, highlights Dries Van Noten, whose models look like poets Mediterranean.

Dries Van Noten.
Louis Gabriel Nouchi.

Those of Louis Gabriel Nouchi come with cheeks wet with tears. “We live in a world where men are enjoined not to cry and not to show their skin: my brand, on the contrary, aims to teach them to assume their versatility”, defends the designer who, each season, chooses a novel as his starting point. This time, A singular man, by Christopher Isherwood (Fayard, 1964), serves as a canvas – the story of the desperate loneliness of a Californian who, forced to keep his homosexuality quiet, is prevented from living in mourning for his companion who died at the wheel.

The shock of the road accident inspires T-shirts, coats or pants in patent leather or gray jacquard carcass-style, followed by a T-shirt whose fabric is tied at the level of the heart, or virginal sets in devoured silk, white or sapphire blue. Among these sad boys, who sometimes allow themselves to reveal a shoulder or part of the back, there are models but also the designer Spencer Phipps or the painter Clément Louis. In addition to indulging in emotions, the models in this successful casting can be well over 25 years old and are not all slender. A wardrobe that is therefore not reserved only for silhouettes in the style of Greek gods.

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