Reading together or not dancing, British fashion remains a living spectacle where, more than elsewhere, the fashion shows are interspersed with live music and performances, as the last mixed fashion week proved once again, from 17 to 21 FEBRUARY.
The Roksanda parade thus unfolds during the declamation of a poem, on the need for silence in a supercharged world, by its author, the British Arch Hades. She is installed, like the guests, in the salons of the Claridge, where grandiloquent silhouettes pass in front of her, in opera gloves and silk scarves, fringed jacquard dresses, pumps and square bags. “Technology versus mankind, mechanization versus emotion: all of this touched me, in the poetry of Arch Hades”, explains Roksanda Ilincic. Themes that also echo the world of Japanese artist Atsuko Tanaka (1932-2005), from whom the designer borrows bright colors and volumes constructed from tubular spirals.
The Irish Robyn Lynch, she returned from Drop Everything, a festival that takes place on the small Irish island of Inis Oirr, enchanted by the performance of her compatriot the harpist Roisin Berkeley. In London, here is the musician accompanying the collection for men, effective and textured sportswear. Mini hiking shorts in coated canvas, cable knit and quilted vest… In endless variations of green, the outfits also display Celtic creatures or a map of Ireland covered with sheep. “I wanted to hijack all the Irish clichés to make them my own”emphasizes Robyn Lynch.
An Alicia Keys concert
Chez Richard Quinn is a romantic ballad performed by singer Gabrielle Aplin, accompanied by the English Chamber Orchestra and dozens of singers, which serves as the soundtrack to the parade. In an English garden setting, it takes the form of a demonstration of couture know-how (sequins, pearls, feathers, etc.) for a slow parade of women of the world in flowery dresses and virginal brides, under the watchful eye more grim of escapees from a BDSM club, in total black latex look.
But it’s Moncler that pushes the live cursor to the maximum, with an Alicia Keys concert at the Olympia Hall. The American pop star is one of the nine collaborators to whom the Italian brand offered to imagine a capsule as part of its Genius program. His collection is close to that of Pharrell Williams, in a horrific forest setting, Adidas, in a tunnel of hallucinatory screens, or Rick Owens, whose models, like black mages, circulate in thick smoke, the visitor being able to lie down on a central bed to observe their macabre dance.
The down jacket sees all the colors: inflated, stretched, in gloves, in bags, in boots, and even in tires in an absurd Mercedes-Benz, presented as a “unique work of art”, above which cosmonauts in silver suits appear to be descending from the sky. Open to the public, the event attracted 10,000 onlookers. And feeds the phenomenon of spectacularization of fashion, making a quilted jacket the pretext for a gigantic amusement park.