“We insist on the possibility of remaining on an open and non-restrictive environmental display model in clothing and textiles”

Ihe Climate and Resilience law provides for entry into force on 1^er January 2024 of an environmental label – the future “environmental labeling” or “eco-score” – in the clothing sector.

This is very good news… if and only if the next decisions and technical orientations make it possible to ensure that this environmental labeling really serves the initial objectives: reducing the impact of the fashion industry, information information and honesty of the consumer in order to engage him in more responsible purchases, the encouragement of the actors involved in order to distinguish good practices from “greenwashing”.

This regulatory project is decisive for the future of the fashion sector: the choice of the environmental impact assessment methodology defines the future objectives of the textile sector and the eco-design roadmap for brands and distributors. .

Risk of “greenwashing”

The technical orientations, which will be decided in the coming months, must avoid any risk of “greenwashing”. Communication to consumers of an environmental impact must be exact – i.e. linked to the actual stages and data of the product’s life cycle – and associated with the true impact of each item of clothing in order to favor the most important players. engaged and best practices.

The official methodology will have to be adapted to the environmental issues of the textile-clothing sector and to the objectives of public policies, such as the consideration of biodiversity, microplastics or sustainability… currently poorly, if at all considered by the method of product environmental footprint (Product Environmental Footprint, PEF), recommended by the European Commission. Several NGOs and consulting firms have already expressed their concerns about the PEF.

The official methodology must be able to be deployed on a large scale by brands and distributors, thanks to a common, complete database, which does not systematically favor one type of brand, material or product (such as ” fast fashion” or “sportswear”).

The display methods should encourage brands to display the impact of their clothing, while allowing consumers to access enriched additional information, presented in a different or more detailed format, likely to encourage transfer to the products. generating the least impact on the environment, including additional indicators (eg contextualized social impact, impact on health, on animal welfare, etc.).

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