The half-moon bag, a rounded under the arm

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Quilted leather bag, Gucci, price on request.  Jil Sander jacket and pants.

VSAt Fendi, the bakery seems to be popular. In 1997, the Italian house launched a best-seller: the baguette, in the shape of bread. A business card. At the same time, Fendi imagined another growing bag, ancestor of the half-moon which is available today everywhere, from luxury houses to mass distribution.

On TikTok, a fabric model from the Japanese brand Uniqlo has gone viral, with everyone finding in the videos highlighting its remarkable capacity a new excuse to put themselves on stage. An exercise halfway between the cult sequence of Mary Poppins and the capsules offered on the sites of fashion magazines, inviting stars to reveal the contents of their bags, as if they were revealing their intimacy.

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But one could also think of Samuel Beckett’s play Oh good days, in which Winnie, a coquettish fifty-year-old, buried up to her waist in a mound of earth, monologues while rummaging in her bag from which she takes out (then puts back) a whole bunch of bric-a-brac: toothbrush, tube of toothpaste, case glasses, mirror, bottle, lipstick, comb, nail file, music box and even a revolver, called Brownie! The role is forever linked to the actress Madeleine Renaud who, directed by Roger Blin, played it until 1986, at the age of 86.

“Jackie”, the precursor

Back to the half moon. In 1971, the year the play was adapted for television, the Irish playwright Samuel Beckett was photographed in a fishing port on the Ligurian coast with a Gucci bag over his shoulder. Not just any: the G1244, another precursor to the half-moon, renamed “Jackie”, because highly prized by JFK’s ex-wife, who, from Manhattan to Capri, used it to hide her face from the paparazzi.

Today, it’s more about showing off. The half-moon bag is essential in a smaller format and is worn under the arm. It is no longer a question of letting yourself be overshadowed by a bag. The era of the it-bag is, they say, digested.

Mini Polo ID bag in patent leather, Polo Ralph Lauren, €499.  Theory top and skirt.
Calfskin Oskan Moon bag, Isabel Marant, €590.  Giorgio Armani dress and overdress.  Falke tights.  Piferi heeled sandals.
  Hobo Repeat bag in calfskin, Versace, €1,750.  Hermes dress.
Faux leather bag, Armani Exchange, €110.  Ferragamo dress and sandals.
Le Petit Patou bag in calfskin, Patou, €590.  Sportmax dress.

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